It was a sneaky pulse of swell at a little secret spot down the south coast. I had been bodyboarding all morning with a mate and photographer, and gotten some really cool shots.
Another surfer mate came along on his ski and was attempting to double tow with the photographer, but they couldn’t make it work. They asked if I wanted to try, so grabbed my 5″4 Mullet I had on the rocks. It has tiny fins in a twin fin set-up, so you can hold a rail but then do 360’s as well. We both stood up, holding on to the towrope together and caught a few 4-5 footers with me trailing my mate holding the GoPro to get that “behind” perspective. We got a couple ok waves, but not the one. The swell jacked a little and we ended up backdooring an 8 footer that just threw out really hard. I was pretty much sacrificing myself every wave so you could get that deep perspective. My mate Scott stood tall and I sat a few metres behind him holding the GoPro up above my head.
I ended up getting completely flogged. Hit the reef then tumbled for 20 seconds. I came up gasping but frothing at the potential of scoring something special, but we had no idea how good the footage was until we got it home on the computer. Once we saw it we knew it was a pretty amazing and I’m super stoked with the social media madness that ensued. My mate did get a couple of me whilst I was on the boog, but nothing compared to the one I got of him.
Never thought I’d have guys like Kelly Slater, Taj Burrows, Mark Mathews and Clarke Little commenting and sharing on a boogers photo. Fingers crossed we win one of these GoPro comps or the XXL Barrel photo of the year!